THE SENSE OF SPECTACLE

EN MAGNUM – December 2025 to February 2026
By Louis-Victor Charvet

 

CHAMPAGNE / Vertical Tasting
Rooted since the creation of this singular house in the Champagne landscape, the fundamentals of Rare Champagne have given birth to a unique wine style. Half a century later, the house stands out as one of the finest in its category.

THE SENSE OF SPECTACLE
RARE CHAMPAGNE operates with a simple principle: do nothing like the others. Upholding this demanding philosophy for nearly fifty years, it has declared only fourteen vintages of its cuvée since its creation in 1976.

Long considered the prestige label of Piper-Heidsieck, Rare was astutely transformed into a standalone house bearing the same name—offering only this single cuvée—under the impetus of the EPI Group, owned by the Descours family, which wanted to give it structure and new ambitions.

There is therefore no programmed calendar for this exclusively vintage champagne, produced as a blanc and in an even rarer rosé version (only four vintages to date).

Before reaching the glass of enthusiasts, a Rare Champagne must fulfill three prerequisites: express the conditions of the vintage; rely on a consistent blend and crus of almost identical—yet not fixed—origins; and develop complexity through long aging, lasting between eight and ten years.

This absolute, demanding standard is today embodied by the duo leading the house: Maud Rabin, its Managing Director, who maintains Rare’s desirability through its rich history; and Émilien Boutillat, Chef de Cave, who oversees the precision blending and selection work required to maintain the cuvée’s promise.

The blend of each Rare vintage (70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir) seeks to express tension and depth, giving this luminous champagne a character that can seem intimidating in its youth. The stylistic identity was shaped over more than a quarter century by Régis Camus, now retired, whose influence defines Rare’s intense bouquet, silky texture, persistent freshness, and slow evolution over time.

THE GOOD AND THE BEAUTIFUL

The house does not select crus based on prestige, though many originate from renowned terroirs. Less famous crus such as Villers-Marmery, Villedommange, Montgueux, or Tauxières also form part of recent blends.

Each vintage expresses its own personality, capturing the essence of the year—whether grandiose (2012, 2008) or atypical (2015, 1999, 1885). All share a restrained elegance typical of great age-worthy wines, growing even more remarkable after long evolution.

Maud Rabin has transformed Rare into a luxury house connected to beauty and emotion, expanding the brand through artistic collaborations. Rare cultivates difference down to its unique bottle shape, without compromising on the essentials required to craft great wines.

The complete tasting confirms the cuvée’s ability to transcend time without losing brilliance—true to its name, incomparable.

TASTING NOTES

Rare 2013 — 95/100

Late, cool, dry vintage. Subtle aromatics opening to white flowers, autumn notes, citrus. Balanced palate with saline tension, creamy texture, voluptuous roundness. Slightly atypical for Rare but faithful to vintage expression. Will gain fullness in 5–10 years.

Rare 2015 — 96/100

Generous, sunny year. Floral intensity, exotic fruits, depth and suppleness. High dosage adapted to structure. Powerful yet controlled with remarkable aging potential.

Rare 2012 — 98/100

Concentrated, noble reduction, strong minerality, brioche, almond, exotic fruits. Immense density and energy. Promised to exceptional evolution—perhaps the greatest yet.

Rare 2008 — 99/100

Monumental classicism. White flowers, citrus, vanilla, toasted almond, sublime reduction and iodine persistence. Likely the greatest Rare since 1976.

Rare 2006 — 94/100

Golden, more evolved. Toasted, slightly oxidative notes. Silky, rich, generous, ready to drink now.

Rare 2002 — 97/100

Powerful, refined, deep. Floral, tropical and spicy with smoky undertone. Chalky tension, classic architecture, vibrant evolution.

Rare 1999 — 92/100

Warm vintage, showing ripe yellow fruit, truffle, spices. Fresh yet slightly bitter structure limits finish. More athletic than delicate.

Rare 1998 — 95/100

Dry fruit profile, firm and dense, slightly tannic, austere yet captivating.

Rare Le Secret (1997) — 94/100

Secret, undisclosed vintage. Undosed. More like a wine than champagne, delicate, floral, charming and singular.

Rare 1990 — 93/100

Sunny year. Candied citrus, empyreumatic notes. Intense and surprising 35 years later.

Rare 1988 — 94/100

Mature, opulent, complex bouquet of wax, honey, white truffle and peat. Old-champagne finish with tobacco and incense.

Rare 1985 — 97/100

Harsh winter. Recently disgorged version extremely fresh despite 39 years on lees. Toast, blood orange, apricot, pineapple, licorice, mocha, resin, honey. Majestic aging potential.

Rare 1979 — 95/100

Autumnal register, honey, dried flowers, undergrowth. Vibrant and harmonious.

Rare 1976 — 93/100

Drought year. Amber robe, tertiary notes, great transformation of power into emotion.