Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com, September 2020 (17.5)
Made in just the same way as all the Kumeu River single-vineyard Kumeu 2019 Chardonnays.
Fuller than the Hunting Hill but with much more framework and tension than the Coddington. Already so pleasing! With that extra breadth plus undertow. Fantastic length. Creamy texture. One for hedonists – by which I don’t mean it’s at all sweet. But it’s richer than the Hunting Hill yet still has that New Zealand purity of fruit. Who could resist this? New Zealand Chardonnay at its finest. Perhaps slightly less burgundian than the Hunting Hill. 14%
Drink 2020 – 2032
Rebecca Gibb MW, vinous.com, November 2020 (96 pts)
Tightly coiled, this focused and athletic Chardonnay needs to be put away in a cool, dark cellar in the medium term to allow it to unwind. A little shy on the nose, presenting melon, beeswax and subtle oak-derived nutty characters, it has an excellent core of concentration. There is a fine, silken texture on the focused and layered midpalate. Produced from the Mendoza clone, which is prone to hens and chicks. Invigorating acidity provides momentum on the lengthy finish.